Seared bonito, katsuo no tataki (Photo: Tom Roseveare)

Ryujinmaru

Straw-grilled seafood and more in Akasaka

Seared bonito, katsuo no tataki (Photo: Tom Roseveare)
Tom Roseveare   - 3 min read

Opened in November 2017, Ryujinmaru specialises in all things warayaki. Straw-grilling is a traditional cooking technique originating from the Tosa region of Kochi prefecture and one of its star dishes, Katsuo no Tataki (seared bonito), is a firm favourite on the menu here.

Grilling bonito over straw
Grilling bonito over straw

This is immediately obvious before stepping inside this izakaya-style establishment, with the shop-front periodically lit up by the blaze of the furnace applying the final straw-grilled touches to customers' orders. The bonito, or skipjack tuna, here is delivered fresh direct from Kochi, and the light straw-grilled searing of the outside of the fish complements the bonito's flavour so well it's a natural choice.

Seared bonito, katsuo no tataki
Seared bonito, katsuo no tataki

The menu promises more straw-grilled delights beyond katsuo though, like Kuroge wagyu beef as well as more standard seafood offerings like assorted fresh sashimi and even a Bagna càuda.

Kochi-inspired offerings continue with buri-daikon, maguro-kama and kamameshi-style dishes, including the chance to try katsuo ochazuke-style, whereby the rice is served with a warm dashi soup and topped with succulent cuts of bonito.

Nodoguro shio-yaki (Rosy Seabass)
Nodoguro shio-yaki (Rosy Seabass)

A fully-stocked menu of sakes, including many local to Kochi, round out the menu with draft Suntory Premium Malts beer available too.

Getting there

Ryujinmaru is a 2-minute walk from Akasaka station, with Exit 1 closest.

Tom Roseveare

Tom Roseveare @tom.roseveare

Creative Director at Japan Travel, based in Tokyo. Feel free to reach out about living, working or travelling in Japan – just book a time.