In a quiet residential neighborhood of Meguro-ku lies a wonderful and peaceful patch of green that is called Komaba Park. It is slightly difficult to find as it is tucked away between the Komaba campus facilities of the University of Tokyo with many of its entrances consisting of passages or mere wall openings in small side streets.
Personally I believe the name “Komaba Park” does not do justice to this elegant piece of property. A more suitable name would have been “The Komaba Estate of Marquis Maeda Toshinari“, since that is what the park actually really is – a private estate once belonging to Mr. Maeda, descendant of the wealthy and powerful Kaga Clan Samurai family that once ruled the Kanazawa area.
An air of aristocracy and sophistication is clearly sensed when wandering the grounds. Once you enter the main iron gate in the north, a broad graveled pathway surrounded by high trees leads you to the main residences – straight ahead of you the Western style mansion (built 1929), while turning to the left will take you to the Japanese style residence (built 1930) that was designed for the foreign visitors of the Maeda family. Completed with tatami floors, it offers beautiful views of a private Japanese garden and a small waterfall and pond.
In contrast, the Western style residence is decorated with heavy European style influences, such as Greek marble pillars, wooden wall panels, chandeliers, stained glass windows and fireplaces. Dwelling on the enjoyable experiences of having lived in France, Britain and Germany, Mr. Maeda had built his house accordingly after returning to Japan. The hallways and main rooms of the Western style residence still breathe splendor, with some of the original furniture and decorations still in place.
The tall windows in the main rooms look out to the luscious garden, where a circle of cherry trees were planted after WWII. The garden offers a perfect (and crowded!) spot for hanami (cherry blossom viewing) gatherings during the Sakura (Cherry blossom) season and it is hard to imagine that it used to be a large lawn, with few trees and vegetation, where the Maeda family entertained itself with horse-riding or skiing in the winter months.
Visiting Komaba Park is a very special experience. Not only are you entering a different time zone – one where you can imagine there were horses and carriages, chandeliers, sophisticated gatherings with decorated tableware and one had dresses for every occasion and time of the day, but you are also experiencing a completely different world within Tokyo itself. Wandering the green grounds of the property, this quiet retreat makes you actually forget that Shibuya is just a stone throw away from you.
