Saito Goma Fire Ceremony in Hongu

Yamabushi mountain priests in action

Alena Eckelmann Dec 13, 2012 - 2 min read

A yamabushi mountain priest decked out in typical gear

The assembled bonfire is set in the middle of a roped-off square

Group of yamabushi praying before the goma fire ceremony commences

In formation, blowing the conch shell, yamabushi are entering the sacred bonfire place

All actions and implements of a fire ceremony have symbolic meaning. Here is a yamabushi shooting off arrows in 6 directions to drive away evil spirits

Once the bonfire is lit, yamabushi throw goma ki, wooden sticks containing peoples' wishes, into the fire

Only yamabushi are allowed into the roped-off square, which equals a sacred space. Everyone else has to assemble outside

The master of ceremony reads a prayer before the fire is lit

The fire is lit from the front and from the back. Yamabushi are controlling the fire and springle some water into it to increase the purifying smoke. In the back a woman is performing a sacred dance

Each part of the yamabushi gear has a meaning. The animal skin, called hisshiki, worn in the back also has symbolic meaning but also serves a practical purpose, namely as a sort of blanket when sitting on rocks or on the ground

The smoke and fire are purifying and the main deity evoked is Fudo-myoo, a guardian deity of esoteric Buddhism in Japan

While the fire burns, yamabushi continue chanting various sutras, especially the Heart Sutra, accompanied by the rhythmic shaking of the shakuyo (ringed short staff used during prayer)

Fire ceremonies at shrines and temples, called goma in Japanese, have become popular attractions but they have a deep symbolic meaning that only the initiated fully understand. Fire, like water, has purifying qualities and it is much used in Shinto and Buddhist ceremonies, as well as in Shugendo ceremonies.

Shugendo, literally "the path of training and testing" is a Japanese mystical-spiritual tradition with ancient roots. Followers of Shugendo, typically referred to as Yamabushi, or "one who lies in the mountains", are masters of Saito Goma (Great Fire Ceremony) which is performed outdoors.

Without understanding the meaning of all actions, these fire ceremonies are a unique experience that inspire all senses of those who watch. Watching the Yamabushi conduct various rituals before the fire is lit and then listen to their chanting throughout the fire ceremony, accompanies by taiko drumming and blowing in conch shells, is definitely a unique experience that can only be had in Japan.

Some visitors to Japan might have stayed at a Shukubo (temple lodging) on Koyasan and experienced an indoor goma fire ceremony there. For example, at Ekoin Temple. The outdoor goma happens on a much bigger scale but the spiritual meaning is the same: to purify body, mind and spirit; to destroy negative energies and invite a positive vibe; to pray to deities and petition them to grand some wishes. These wishes are written down on wooden prayer sticks, called goma ki, by visitors and participants. The Yamabushi who are inside the roped off sacred area where the pyre of wood is burning, will put these sticks into the fire in a ceremonial way.

This goma fire ceremony takes place at the Kumano Hongu Taisha on the last day of the Hongu Taisha Spring Festival in April each year.

Other famous fire-related events in the area are the Oto Matsuri in Shingu City in February and the Nachi Hi Matsuri in Nachi in July each year. The latter two fire festivals have their roots in ancient traditions and are not explicitly rooted in the Shugendo tradition.

Hongu Town has no train station! Take a JR train to Shingu or to Tanabe and then change to a local bus. The bus terminals are in front of the train stations. Local staff can advise you about the next departure. Please bear in mind that there are no busses running in the evening and throughout the night.

Alternatively, rent a car and enjoy a weekend drive or a drive holiday across the Kii Peninsula.

More info

Find out more about Kumano Hongu Taisha.

Alena Eckelmann @alena.eckelmann

Founder of Kii Monogatari, my story and the story of the Kii Peninsula of Japan. Originally from East Germany, I came to Tokyo, via Berlin and London, in 2005. In summer 2011 I moved by choice to remote Kumano in the south of the Kii Peninsula where I live, work and play now, and explore every da...