The sign at the bottom of the hill doesn't say much more than "pizza" but it doesn't have to. That was enough to entice me up the twisting driveway just outside the spa town of Kurokawa Onsen in the foothills north of Kumamoto's Mt Aso region. At the top, a very European-style abode greets visitors with warm terra cotta tiles and the wafting scent of oregano. If you're looking for an authentic "pie", Tre Passo is the right place to come.
Inside, go for the tables near the window so you can gaze out at the Kuju Mountains to the north as you ponder your pick of pizzas. There are at least ten different options on offer, from the standards like margarita and marinara to those with more Japanese ingredients (corn and tuna being the more notable toppings). In certain seasons, specialty pizzas are available - when they opened in the fall of 2013, a delectable-looking pumpkin pizza was on the menu.
Pizzas won't take long to cook, even though they're made from scratch behind the counter as soon as you place your order. The traditional brick pizza oven in the corner is consistently hot and the thin crust assures a fast cooking time. However, it's not a bad idea to start off your meal with a bit of salad. Expect fresh local greens and vegetables like tomatoes and radishes to lend perfectly with Italian-inspired sauces (olive oil plays a big role here, as is to be expected). There are even a handful of pasta dishes on the menu should your appetite be considerable.
Dessert is written daily on the chalkboards scattered around the restaurant but don't be afraid to ask for a recommendation if you can't read what's on offer (Japanese only). The tiramisu was a reliable choice - though two of us made fast work of it, it wasn't huge - and there is usually a cake or pie option as well as ice cream.
Tre Passo is a few miles outside of Kurokawa Onsen, but it's not exactly within walking distance. Opt for a taxi or go by car. The winding driveway may intimidate some, but there is ample space at the top for cars.