Arriving in Hokkaido in early autumn, the cool fresh air immediately struck me after exiting the Memambetsu Airport—a welcome change from the humidity and heat lingering in the southern parts of Japan.
I made my way over to the eastern coastal area of Abashiri to begin my journey on the Eastern Hokkaido Great Nature & Adventure Tour. I had always been interested in the eastern side of Hokkaido, having watched a seemingly infinite number of YouTube videos about the prefecture’s nature and wildlife. However, I had not yet had the chance to visit this lesser-known location.
On the morning of our tour departure, I was greeted in the hotel lobby by our very friendly guides for this adventure, Aya-san, and Toru-san, both very enthusiastic, full-of-energy locals who spoke English quite well, for which I was very thankful for. Immediately, I got the impression that locals here had a different kind of vibe compared to people living down in the bustling cities of mainland Japan. They seemed less stressed and easygoing. I asked our guide Aya, who has lived in Hokkaido for the past 20 years, what set this area apart from mainland Japan.
Our group set off on a leisurely bicycle ride from a mountaintop plateau overlooking the stunning Kussharo Lake down to an area of the lake with hot spring steam vents, which we explored on kayaks. Once we returned to land, we were greeted with a wonderful lunch on the shore of the lake consisting of amazing homemade sandwiches and fruit made with locally sourced ingredients. It was immediately apparent that the food in Hokkaido was on a different level of freshness and flavor than what I was accustomed to. The friendly catering staff explained that all the vegetables and fruit were grown organically and the meat was from animals that were not kept in cages, but were instead allowed to roam free on Hokkaido’s lush grassy fields. These farming techniques combined with the region’s cool pure air create delicious and healthy ingredients that are the foundation of Hokkaido cuisine.
In the afternoon on the second day, after arriving at our hotel for the night, we were invited to an amazing lakeside BBQ party. Our cooks prepared various local organic vegetables, along with beef and even some Hokkaido deer. Everything tasted so fresh and delicious. Combined with some good stories amongst friends and stunning lake views, it made for one memorable afternoon.
Over the following days, our group experienced wonderful educational tours of active volcanoes, wetland kayaking tours, and encounters with many species of wildlife that I've never seen before. One animal that I was particularly interested in and that Hokkaido is famous for is the salmon. As salmon is one of my favorite dishes, be it raw in sashimi form or grilled, I was excited to learn what makes Hokkaido salmon so special. I was able to witness hundreds of them swimming along the rivers. I learned that one of the reasons the salmon here are regarded throughout Japan is because of the incredibly clean waters that Hokkaido provides for them to live in. After sampling salmon from various restaurants on our journey, I can confidently say that Hokkaido’s variety is the freshest and most delicious I've ever had the pleasure of enjoying.
On our final evening, we got to experience a cooking style known as Robatayaki at a restaurant in Kushiro City. Robatayaki is a style of cooking that originated in Hokkaido where the food is prepared and cooked directly in front of you! The entertaining cooking method involves grilling food, often on skewers, over hot coals. The aromas wafting throughout the restaurant had us all drooling as plate after plate arrived at our table. I learned that this method was favored by people in Hokkaido since it kept the food warm as they ate it during colder months, as well as gave it a special flavor.
Every bite was mouthwatering and full of flavor. I also appreciated the fact that all of the fish and beef were sourced locally on the island. This dining experience was unforgettable, leaving a lasting impression on my taste buds.
I came back from Hokkaido feeling energized and with a new appreciation for its people, culture and especially the food. I also discovered a love of the wildlife that roam freely here. I already can't wait to go back and experience the area in greater detail in the not-too-distant future.
