Mt. Takanawa is one of the highest mountains within the borders of Matsuyama city. It stands at a height of 986 meters in the northern part of the city in the area called Hojo until recently. Its distinctive shape, topped with a huge radio mast, can be seen from many parts of the city, and it dominates skyline of northern Matsuyama. The mountain is often cloaked in cloud and in winter, the top is dusted with white, especially in January and February. Adventurous people will be tempted to venture up Mt. Takanawa, but having once got there, the question is what to do next.
One attractive option is a dip in the mountain hot spring at Chikuzanso Onsen. This is part of a very isolated inn located in a deep valley on the inland side of Mt. Takanawa. If you didn’t know it was there, you could easily miss it, despite the many signs on the little road that winds past the inn.
I went on a very wet day during the rainy season in July. After driving up Mt. Takanawa from the sea side and exploring the temple at the top, I made my way to Chikuzanso paying careful heed to my map. The route took me through some deep mountain scenery with picturesque hamlets clinging to the slopes. There were some shrines I’d like to have visited, but at times the rain was so hard I’d have been soaked instantly. I was looking for a warmer sort of soak.
Reflecting its deep mountain location, Chikuzanso is decorated with the stuffed animals that inhabit the area including wild boar, pheasants, buzzards and hawks, and enka singers (OK, the enka singers aren’t stuffed, they’re shown on posters).
Although you can stay at Chikuzanso and enjoy some of the abundant game cooked in a variety of delicious ways, visitors are free to drop in for an onsen. It costs 400 yen if you don’t eat, 300 yen if you do. The onsen is a small, cozy indoor bath with a nice rock objet and a view of the gardens and mountains beyond through the big window. I had it all to myself and thoroughly enjoyed a good soak as I watched the rain pouring down outside.
Name in Japanese: 竹山荘 chikuzansō
