Near the center of Handa City, just 40 kilometers south of Nagoya stands the Handa Red Brick Building. At first glance it could be mistaken for being abandoned, as it’s usually closed and the brick work is pocked with bullet holes. Originally constructed by the Marusan Brewery Company in 1887, this particular building has been designated as a National Tangible Cultural Property, being the largest red bricked building remaining from the Meiji Period, when Japan emerged from a self imposed 250 year isolation at the end of the feudal period. In it’s heyday, the complex was a factory, a brewery, making one of Japan’s finest and most popular beers. This was the home of Kabuto Beer!
Beer became a popular drink in the early Meiji period, having been introduced by the many foreigners entering Japan to assist in it’s redevelopment. Their influences included architecture, and many buildings constructed at the time utilized the red brick work popular in Europe. Other foreign introductions included beer. In fact, it wasn’t long before a number of local brews were being produced. Just over 100 years ago, there were four major beer brands in Japan, Dai Nippon, Kirin, Teikoku and the Handa produced Kabuto! A Kabuto, by the way, is a Samurai’s helmet, and the mark of the beer that won the Alcoholic Beverages category Gold Medal at the Paris Expo of 1900! The five story foreign styled building produced the nationally popular brew until 1921, when the company closed.
Once the brewery had closed, the complex was used as a factory for cornstarch, and as a warehouse for a variety of products. Parts of the brickworks feature bullet holes, reminders of the American P51 air raids of the 1945. During the war, the Nakajima Aircraft Company established an aircraft manufacturing plant in Handa City, and the beer factory was used to store airplane parts, hence it became a target for allied attack planes.
In the late 1990’s the building came under the administration of Handa City, and in 2005, the locals restored the historical factory and revived the popular beer, complete with old styled labels. Unfortunately, the brew is no longer concocted in the old factory, however, a local brewer in nearby Minamichita has kept the suds coming, although in limited supply.
The former factory is only opened to the public a few times each year, usually during Handa’s festivals, including the summer festivals and during nations’ biggest dashi (float) festival in October, however it is illuminated nightly, and is worth taking the time to wander the small grounds and view the old factory, taking in it’s Victorian architectural style and influences.
After looking around the old brewery, no doubt you’ll have worked up a thirst. Although the factory may be closed, the good news is Kabuto Beer is available at many restaurants, hotels and pubs in and around Handa. Order yourself a Kabuto when you visit Handa. Goes well with the locally raised Chita Beef too! Cheers!
